Updated: Mar 30, 2019
This two tone Oyster bracelet has seen better days to say the least. Sent to us from a client, Rolex Service Center quoted $4750 for a replacement and would not return the old bracelet. Yikes. But without question this bracelet needs to be addressed one way or another. Not a good look for this 16613 submariner.
Under close inspection the assembly pins are showing through. This is not normal. In additional to missing chunks of steel, large amounts of gold are missing from the corners of the gold center loops. To repair this we will need laser weld new 316l stainless steel to repair the end caps. A good amount of goldsmith work will be needed to repair the gold loops.
The clasp isn't looking that hot either.
Torn down we get our first chance to really see the extent of the wear.
These gold loops need to perfectly square on all four corners to repair the and stretch (sloppiness). To do this we will need to gold solder new gold sections. In addition to making each piece square we will want to strengthen each corner with thick sections of solid gold sheet for additional strength.
Thick gold sections are added to strengthen the weaken corners. Heated to 1350 degrees with an acetylene torch each gold loop receives this treatment. It's not pretty (yet) but it's required.
The excess gold is removed and filed flat. Each section is checked and made perfectly square. Almost there.
After some polishing we are left with this! Almost hard to believe these are the same beat up pieces we started with. Now onto the steel end caps. Each steel end cap will need to repaired. All 24 pieces (2 per link x 12 links) will need to filled with new 316L stainless steel. We use a laser welder and 316L stainless steel fill wire to accomplish this.
After the new material is added it is surfaced down until it is flat and smooth with the original steel. Once completed, it is reassembled using new assembly pins and sleeves.
We charged much less than $4750. Total cost for this job? $400 for the basic rebuild, $550 for the additional goldsmith work and gold for a total of $950.
Oh remember that grungy clasp?