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Rolexor 93153 Oyster Repair: Extreme Edition

Updated: Mar 29, 2019


This two tone Oyster bracelet has seen better days to say the least. Sent to us from a client, Rolex Service Center quoted $4750 for a replacement and would not return the old bracelet. Yikes. But without question this bracelet needs to be addressed one way or another. Not a good look for this 16613 submariner.

Rolex Band Repair Rolliworks 9315 Oyster




Under close inspection the assembly pins are showing through. This is not normal. In additional to missing chunks of steel, large amounts of gold are missing from the corners of the gold center loops. To repair this we will need laser weld new 316l stainless steel to repair the end caps. A good amount of goldsmith work will be needed to repair the gold loops.




The clasp isn't looking that hot either.


Rolex Band Repair Rolliworks 9315 Oyster



Torn down we get our first chance to really see the extent of the wear.



Rolex Band Repair Rolliworks 9315 Oyster



These gold loops need to perfectly square on all four corners to repair the and stretch (sloppiness). To do this we will need to gold solder new gold sections. In addition to making each piece square we will want to strengthen each corner with thick sections of solid gold sheet for additional strength.


Rolex Band Repair Rolliworks 9315 Oyster

Rolex Band Repair Rolliworks 9315 Oyster



Thick gold sections are added to strengthen the weaken corners. Heated to 1350 degrees with an acetylene torch each gold loop receives this treatment. It's not pretty (yet) but it's required.

Rolex Band Repair Rolliworks 9315 Oyster

Rolex Band Repair Rolliworks 9315 Oyster
Short Side

The excess gold is removed and filed flat. Each section is checked and made perfectly square. Almost there.


Rolex Band Repair Rolliworks 9315 Oyster


Rolex Band Repair Rolliworks 9315 Oyster
Fully assembled

After some polishing we are left with this! Almost hard to believe these are the same beat up pieces we started with. Now onto the steel end caps. Each steel end cap will need to repaired. All 24 pieces (2 per link x 12 links) will need to filled with new 316L stainless steel. We use a laser welder and 316L stainless steel fill wire to accomplish this.




Rolex Band Repair Rolliworks 9315 Oyster

After the new material is added it is surfaced down until it is flat and smooth with the original steel. Once completed, it is reassembled using new assembly pins and sleeves.








We charged much less than $4750. Total cost for this job? $400 for the basic rebuild, $550 for the additional goldsmith work and gold for a total of $950.


Oh remember that grungy clasp?


Before:


After:


BAM!

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4 Comments


Searching the world for this bracelet for my 16610 bi metal submariner 401b ends year 1990 if you possibly have one or the later one with the gold all the way through the clasp ....can you help ?

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Blake Blackwell
Blake Blackwell
Feb 16, 2023
Replying to

I believe you mean a reference 16613. I was in the same predicament as you, I have a 1991 16613 Submariner and the original bracelet is stretched considerably and the part on the clasp that you close to secure the watch after it's on your wrist no longer snaps and stays secure. As for the later iteration of the bracelet, with gold through the clasp... that bracelet started when the Submariner was made with SEL iirc, which means that bracelet would not fit our watch. The clasp however would be compatible. What I did was I found a nice aftermarket bracelet on Ebay that would fit 5 digit Subs with holes in case, swapped the clasp with a 16613 gold…

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Kenneth Ringwood
Kenneth Ringwood
Oct 17, 2021

Crazy Beautiful,$950.00 for this Job?Are You Crazy??The amount of time and energy,precious metal prices at excess of $1800.00 an Ounce,this is a B_A_R_G_A_I_N.I just received 2 Jubilee Bracelets from a "Watchmaker",one SS looks OK but the 14k/SS looks like a 12 year old did it and it should have been Refused.Not to mention my #1601 comes back broken with the same problem it went in for (cant wind it)If it sounds too good to be true,it probally is.Im a Retired Master Watchmaker and Never did a Watch come back for an error,never. Then He tells me how to wind it?I can run circles around this clown,what an insult.Anyway,will be sending my work to Rolliworks from now on,just found out about…

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Rick Adams
Rick Adams
Feb 06, 2020

Hey guys, I am so excited about sending my old band to you guys for repair. I know the two tone you show how you guys restored it my band came with my watch when I purchased it from a developer who when the housing market took a plunge he was selling it on craigslist and he drove from Miami to Cocoa Beach Fl to sale me his watch for 5,000.

He thanked me cause he did not know how he was going to make payroll I felt really bad for him,

I got all the boxes and the jewler certificate . I had him meet me at the Rolex Jeweler in my area so the watch could be verified…

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